Traps and Poison Won’t Fix Your Rodent Problem

You’re hearing scratching in the walls at night. You find droppings under the sink. You set traps, catch a few mice, and think it’s over. Two weeks later, more scratching. More droppings. More mice.

Here’s why: You’re killing individual rodents, but you’re not addressing how they’re getting in or why they’re there. Until entry points are sealed and attractants are eliminated, new rodents will keep replacing the ones you catch.

Effective rodent control requires three things: eliminate the current population, seal all entry points (exclusion), and remove what’s attracting them. That’s what we do.

Tired of fighting mice and rats? Call +1 (347) 210-4646 or request service online. We eliminate rodents and seal entry points to keep them out for good.

The Two Rodents Invading NYC Buildings

House Mice (Mus musculus)

What they look like: Small (2-4 inches body length), light brown to gray, large ears relative to head size, pointed nose, thin tail as long as body.

Where they live: Inside buildings year-round. They nest in wall voids, cabinets, storage boxes, insulation, appliances, and anywhere warm and secluded. Colonies often establish in multiple locations throughout a building.

What they eat: Grains, seeds, and cereals preferred, but they’ll eat almost anything—pet food, crumbs, soap, glue, insulation. They need only 1/10 ounce of food per day and can survive on tiny crumbs.

How they get in: Gaps as small as a dime (1/4 inch). Common entry points include gaps around pipes and utilities, cracks in foundations, gaps under doors, ventilation openings, damaged screens, and gaps in siding or roofing.

Why they’re a problem: They reproduce rapidly (6-10 litters per year, 5-6 pups per litter). One pair can become 60 mice in three months. They contaminate food, spread disease, chew wiring (fire hazard), and damage insulation and stored goods.

Norway Rats (Rattus norvegicus)

What they look like: Large (7-10 inches body length), brown to gray, heavy-bodied, small ears relative to head size, blunt nose, thick tail shorter than body length.

Where they live: Primarily outdoors in burrows under buildings, in sewers, beneath concrete slabs, in rubble piles, and along foundations. They enter buildings to forage for food and water, especially in basements and ground floors.

What they eat: Omnivorous—they eat meat, fish, grains, fruits, garbage, pet food, and nearly anything humans eat. They need about 1 ounce of food per day and require water daily (unlike mice).

How they get in: Gaps as small as a half-dollar (1/2 inch). Common entry points include foundation cracks, gaps around basement windows, damaged door sweeps, gaps where utilities enter buildings, broken sewer lines, and floor drain connections.

Why they’re a problem: They’re larger and more destructive than mice. They gnaw through wood, plastic, soft metals, and cinder blocks. They spread serious diseases (leptospirosis, salmonella, rat-bite fever). They’re aggressive when cornered and can bite.

Why NYC Buildings Have Rodent Problems

Old infrastructure with countless entry points – Most NYC buildings were constructed before modern pest-proofing. Foundation cracks, gaps around ancient plumbing, deteriorated mortar, missing vent screens, damaged door sweeps—older buildings have dozens of rodent entry points. Even small cracks let mice through.

Endless food sources in urban environment – NYC generates massive amounts of food waste. Restaurant dumpsters, sidewalk garbage, outdoor dining, food carts, subway trash, residential bins—rodents have unlimited food access. Buildings near food businesses face constant rodent pressure.

Construction and renovation create disturbances – Excavation, demolition, and utility work disrupt rat burrows and mouse nests, forcing them into buildings. Construction also creates new entry points and disturbed ground perfect for rat burrowing. Major construction projects (like subway work) push rat populations into surrounding buildings.

Aging sewer systems – NYC’s sewer system is over 100 years old in many areas. Cracked sewer lines, broken connections, and damaged pipes allow rats to travel between sewers and buildings. Rats enter through floor drains, toilet connections, and damaged basement pipes.

Connected buildings and shared basements – Attached row houses, connected basements, and shared walls create rodent highways. Mice and rats travel between buildings through common spaces. Your rodent problem might originate from three buildings down.

Warmer winters allow year-round breeding – Milder winters and heated buildings mean rodents breed year-round. There’s no seasonal die-off. Populations that would decline in harsh winters continue growing through NYC’s relatively mild cold season.

Delayed action lets populations explode – People ignore a few mice thinking they’ll leave. Meanwhile, rodents are breeding every month. One pregnant female mouse becomes dozens within three months. By the time customers call, the population is already established.

Our Rodent Control & Exclusion Process

Step 1: Comprehensive Inspection

We don’t just look for droppings—we identify species, locate nesting areas, map entry points, assess population size, and determine what’s attracting them.

Interior inspection:

• Active signs (droppings, gnaw marks, grease marks, tracks)
• Nesting materials and locations
• Food and water sources
• Structural gaps and entry points
• Damage to wiring, insulation, or stored goods

Exterior inspection:

• Foundation cracks and gaps
• Utility penetrations (pipes, wires, vents)
• Door and window gaps
• Damaged screens and vents
• Burrow locations (for rats)
• Nearby attractants (garbage, compost, debris)

We provide a detailed assessment: what you have (mice or rats), how bad it is, where they’re coming from, and what needs to be done.

Step 2: Population Reduction

We eliminate the current rodent population using multiple methods:

Trapping:

• Snap traps in active areas (most effective for mice)
• Multiple trap placements along walls and travel routes
• Checked and reset regularly until activity stops
• Carcass removal included

Baiting (when appropriate):

• Rodenticide bait stations in secure locations
• Used strategically for rats or heavy mouse infestations
• Placed where non-target animals can’t access
• Monitored and refreshed until activity ceases

We don’t just set traps and leave. We return regularly to check traps, remove carcasses, assess activity levels, and adjust placement based on results.

Step 3: Exclusion (Sealing Entry Points)

This is the most important step—and what most companies skip. We seal every entry point to prevent new rodents from entering.

Common exclusion work:

• Seal gaps around pipes and utilities with steel wool and foam
• Fill foundation cracks with mortar or concrete
• Install door sweeps on exterior doors
• Screen or cap ventilation openings
• Repair damaged window screens and basement window frames
• Seal gaps in siding, roofing, and trim
• Install metal kickplates to prevent gnawing under doors
• Cap unused chimneys and vents

Materials we use:

• Copper mesh and steel wool (rodents can’t chew through)
• Expanding foam mixed with steel wool
• Metal flashing and kickplates
• Concrete and mortar for foundation repairs
• Heavy-duty screening for vents

Exclusion work varies by building type. Brownstones need different work than high-rise buildings. We customize based on your property’s specific vulnerabilities.

Step 4: Sanitation & Attractant Removal

Even with exclusion, rodents will keep trying if attractants remain.

We recommend:

• Proper garbage storage in sealed containers
• Cleaning up food spills and crumbs immediately
• Storing food (including pet food) in sealed containers
• Fixing plumbing leaks (rodents need water)
• Removing clutter that provides nesting material
• Keeping outdoor areas clean (no debris piles, compost management)
• Trimming vegetation away from foundation

We provide specific recommendations based on what we find during inspection.

Step 5: Monitoring & Follow-Up

Rodent control isn’t one-and-done. We return for follow-up visits to:

• Check traps and bait stations
• Assess activity levels
• Inspect exclusion work
• Retreat if needed
• Confirm elimination

Typical timeline:

• Initial treatment and trap/bait placement
• Weekly visits for 2-4 weeks to monitor and adjust
• Exclusion work (can happen alongside trapping)
• Final inspection once activity stops
• Follow-up at 30-60 days to confirm success

How Long Does Rodent Control Take?

Minor mouse problem (5-10 mice):

• Elimination within 2-3 weeks
• Exclusion work prevents recurrence
• Follow-up at 30 days to confirm

Established mouse infestation (20+ mice):

• 4-6 weeks for full elimination
• Multiple trap checks and resets needed
• Exclusion critical to prevent re-entry
• Follow-up monitoring for 60 days

Rat problem (burrows outside, entering building):

• 4-8 weeks depending on population size
• Baiting program for outdoor burrows
• Trapping for interior activity
• Exclusion work to seal entry points
• Ongoing monitoring recommended in high-pressure areas

Severe multi-building infestation:

• 8-12 weeks for comprehensive control
• Requires coordination between neighboring properties
• Combination of trapping, baiting, and exclusion
• Ongoing maintenance may be necessary

Timeline depends on population size, building conditions, neighboring infestations, and how quickly exclusion work can be completed.

Warning Signs You Have Rodents

Droppings:

• Mouse droppings: small (1/4 inch), dark, pointed ends, scattered along walls and in cabinets
• Rat droppings: larger (3/4 inch), dark, blunt ends, concentrated near nesting or feeding areas
• Fresh droppings are soft and dark; old droppings are dry and gray

Gnaw marks:

• Teeth marks on food packaging, wood, wires, plastic
• Holes chewed in baseboards, cabinets, stored goods
• Fresh gnaw marks are lighter colored; old marks are darker

Grease marks and rub marks:

• Dark, oily smudges along walls where rodents travel repeatedly
• Most visible along baseboards, pipes, and beams
• Indicates established travel routes

Scratching and scurrying sounds:

• Scratching in walls or ceilings at night (rodents are nocturnal)
• Scurrying sounds when lights are turned on
• Squeaking or fighting sounds (indicates population)

Nesting materials:

• Shredded paper, fabric, insulation gathered in hidden areas
• Found in wall voids, cabinets, storage boxes, appliances
• Often mixed with droppings

Tracks and runways:

• Visible paths in dust or dirt along walls
• Rodents follow the same routes repeatedly
• Runways appear as smooth, cleared paths

Burrows (for rats):

• Holes in ground near foundations (2-4 inches diameter)
• Fresh dirt piled outside burrow entrance
• Burrows often located under bushes, concrete slabs, or debris

Actual sightings:

• Seeing rodents during daytime indicates large population (normally nocturnal)
• Mice move quickly along walls
• Rats are more cautious and harder to spot

Unusual pet behavior:

• Dogs or cats obsessively staring at walls, scratching at baseboards
• Pets refusing to enter certain areas
• Animals acting agitated in specific rooms

If you’re seeing multiple signs, you have an active infestation that needs immediate attention.

Why DIY Rodent Control Usually Fails

Store-bought traps aren’t placed properly – Rodents travel along walls, not across open floors. Most people place traps in wrong locations. We place traps along active travel routes, near entry points, and in areas showing fresh signs.

Not using enough traps – One or two traps won’t catch a population of 20+ mice. We set multiple traps throughout the property, focusing on active areas. More traps mean faster elimination.

Wrong bait or lure – Cheese isn’t the best mouse bait (despite cartoons). Peanut butter, nesting material, and seeds work better. We use professional lures that attract rodents more effectively.

No follow-up or adjustment – Rodents learn to avoid traps. Populations shift to new areas. You need to check traps daily, reset them, move them based on activity, and adjust strategies. Most DIY efforts give up too soon.

Entry points remain unsealed – Catching mice doesn’t matter if new ones keep coming in. Without professional exclusion work, you’re just catching an endless supply of new rodents entering through unsealed gaps.

Can’t reach nesting areas – Mice nest inside walls, under floors, in ceilings. Rats burrow under foundations. You can’t access these areas without proper equipment and knowledge. We treat hidden harborage areas that DIY can’t reach.

Safety concerns with rodenticides – Over-the-counter rat poison is dangerous around kids and pets. It also causes rodents to die in walls, creating odor problems. Professional baiting uses secure stations and monitoring to minimize risks.

Health Risks from Rodents

Rodents carry diseases and create serious health hazards:

Direct disease transmission:

• Hantavirus (from breathing dust contaminated with droppings/urine)
• Leptospirosis (from contact with rat urine)
• Salmonella (from contaminated food)
• Rat-bite fever (from bites or scratches)
• Lymphocytic choriomeningitis (LCMV) from mouse droppings

Indirect disease transmission:

• Fleas and mites living on rodents bite humans
• Ticks carried by rodents spread Lyme disease
• Rodent parasites infest homes after rodents die

Contamination:

• Droppings and urine contaminate food preparation areas
• Rodents spread bacteria everywhere they travel
• Stored food becomes unsafe when exposed to rodent activity

Allergens:

• Rodent urine and dander trigger allergies and asthma
• Especially problematic for children and sensitive individuals
• Airborne particles from dried droppings cause respiratory issues

Fire hazards:

• Rodents chew electrical wiring, creating fire risks
• Damaged wiring in walls can smolder undetected
• Insurance companies recognize rodent damage as fire hazard

Structural damage:

• Rats gnaw through wood, plastic, and soft metals
• Mice chew insulation, reducing energy efficiency
• Both species damage stored goods and belongings

These aren’t theoretical risks—they’re real health hazards requiring professional elimination.

Rodent Prevention After Elimination

Maintain exclusion work:

• Inspect sealed areas annually for damage
• Re-seal any new gaps or cracks immediately
• Keep door sweeps in good condition
• Repair damaged screens promptly

Eliminate food sources:

• Store all food in rodent-proof containers (glass, metal, heavy plastic)
• Don’t leave pet food out overnight
• Clean up spills and crumbs immediately
• Use garbage cans with tight-fitting lids
• Don’t feed birds near the building (fallen seed attracts rodents)

Remove water sources:

• Fix plumbing leaks promptly
• Don’t leave standing water in sinks or buckets
• Ensure proper drainage around foundation
• Fix condensation issues on pipes

Reduce outdoor attractants:

• Keep garbage in sealed containers
• Manage compost properly (away from building, sealed bins)
• Remove debris piles, wood piles, and clutter near foundation
• Trim vegetation away from building (18+ inches)
• Eliminate outdoor water sources (leaky hoses, standing water)

Monitor regularly:

• Check for new droppings monthly
• Inspect entry points for new gaps
• Look for gnaw marks or other activity signs
• Address small problems before they become infestations

In multi-unit buildings:

• Work with building management for coordinated control
• Ensure garbage areas are properly maintained
• Report new activity immediately
• Cooperate with building-wide prevention efforts

Prevention is cheaper and easier than elimination. Once we’ve solved your rodent problem, these measures keep it solved.

Mice vs. Rats: Key Differences

Size:

• Mice: 2-4 inches body length
• Rats: 7-10 inches body length

Droppings:

• Mouse: 1/4 inch, pointed ends
• Rat: 3/4 inch, blunt ends

Entry points:

• Mice: 1/4 inch gap (size of a dime)
• Rats: 1/2 inch gap (size of a quarter)

Behavior:

• Mice: Curious, explore readily, investigate new things
• Rats: Cautious, neophobic (fear of new things), avoid changes

Diet:

• Mice: Prefer grains and seeds, need little water
• Rats: Omnivorous, need water daily

Nesting:

• Mice: Inside buildings in hidden voids
• Rats: Primarily outdoors in burrows, enter to forage

Treatment differences:

• Mice: Focus on interior trapping and exclusion
• Rats: Combination of exterior baiting and interior exclusion

Identifying which rodent you have determines the treatment approach. We often see mice indoors and rats in basements or exterior areas around the same building.

Common Rodent Myths

Myth: Mice and rats avoid homes with cats
Partially true. Cats catch some rodents, but they don’t prevent or eliminate infestations. Mice and rats adapt to living alongside cats, especially in buildings with large populations.

Myth: Ultrasonic devices repel rodents
False. Multiple studies show ultrasonic repellers don’t work. Rodents quickly habituate to the sound. Save your money—they’re ineffective.

Myth: Rodents leave if you remove food sources
False. While removing food helps, rodents can survive on tiny amounts. They also seek shelter and water, not just food. Elimination requires trapping/baiting plus exclusion.

Myth: Poison is the best solution
False. Poison has significant downsides: rodents die in walls creating odor problems, it’s dangerous around kids and pets, and it doesn’t prevent new rodents from entering. Trapping plus exclusion is more effective and safer.

Myth: One mouse means a small problem
False. If you see one mouse, there are likely more hiding. Mice breed rapidly—one pregnant female becomes dozens within months. Address it immediately before it becomes severe.

Myth: Rats only live in dirty areas
False. Rats infest clean buildings just as easily as dirty ones. They need food, water, and shelter—all available in well-maintained properties. Cleanliness helps but doesn’t prevent rats.

Get Professional Rodent Control

Look, rodents don’t leave on their own. They breed rapidly, cause property damage, spread disease, and create serious health hazards. The longer you wait, the worse it gets.

We eliminate current populations and seal entry points to prevent new ones from entering. That’s the only way to solve rodent problems permanently.

Call us at +1 (347) 210-4646 or request service online. We’ll inspect, trap the current population, seal entry points, and keep rodents out for good.

New York Exterminating, Inc.
1115 E 13th St, Brooklyn, NY 11230
Licensed & Certified Since 2010

Rodent-free homes require elimination plus exclusion. We do both.